jfrebel - Posted - 02/20/2015:  13:54:22

I saw a used km-630 for $349 used at guitar centers website rated as excellent condition. Considering its 700 something new I took a chance and ordered it. I can change my mind and get a refund if it's broke or something. What I want to know is what to look for, and also how to tell how old it is? I heard older ones of this model didn't have a solid back. Lastly is this a good deal and where can I go in OKC to get a set up done if needed? (Or do it myself) thanks!

UsuallyPickin - Posted - 02/20/2015:  14:55:47

Rob Meldrum has an excellent setup guide and some YouTube vids on how to setup a mandolin........If you can get a mandolin you like to play and has decent tone for 400.00$ you've scored... R/

jfrebel - Posted - 02/20/2015:  23:45:10

Thanks for the reply!

I've heard older versions of this model were kinda poor and made out of laminate, but the newer ones are all solid and good mandolins.

do you know how to tell if this used mandolin is a newer version or not?

I will want this deal if it sounds good, I can get it set up myself with those youtube videos or by some luthier, AND its the newer version with the all solid woods and improved tone.

UsuallyPickin - Posted - 02/21/2015:  03:24:20

If it is a laminate body the grain on the inside will be different than on the outside. With a small flashlight you can probably tell with a close inspection. If the stain on the body is so dark that that is not possible email Saga Musical Instruments and ask them. You could also try asking Dennis Vance at the Mandolin Store as he deals with these instruments and is a really great guy and vendor. R/

Rob Beck - Posted - 02/21/2015:  07:16:51

I could be wrong about this, but I though the tops on the older ones were laminate too. If so, you should be able to tell by looking at the edge of the sound hole. The different layers of wood should be visible if it is laminate.

b4reich - Posted - 02/23/2015:  06:24:44

I've had a KM-630 for nearly 10 years. It was played everyday, but after saving the money for a high end mandolin, it now my "beater". The top is made of one solid piece of (what I assume is) spruce. I know nothing about the newer models.

jfrebel - Posted - 02/25/2015:  10:11:14

how did your old model sound and play? did it hold up in jams? if anything the newer ones are better so if yours did great, then I should be fine, too.

b4reich - Posted - 02/26/2015:  05:42:31

quote:

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Originally posted by jfrebel

 

how did your old model sound and play? did it hold up in jams? if anything the newer ones are better so if yours did great, then I should be fine, too.

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My 630 did and still does play great. After the first few years, I played out with it at least once a week. I still use it when I play at an outdoor gig or if I need to play plugged in (I replaced the to top of the bridge with one that has a piezo pickup and run it through a Fishman preamp). It's held up to everyday use just fine, however due to my VERY heavy handed beginners chop style, I burned out the first 3 frets (4 & 5 were close too). I had the 5 of them replaced (at about 6 years old) and it's been good as gold ever since. As I've stated in another post and to numerous people who've asked, at that price point it's hard to beat the Kentucky 620 / 630. Other manufacturers produce fancier looking models but I don't buy or play instruments for their looks. Also, just under $400 seems to be the going rate for a used 630 these day, so the price seems to be "on".

As I stated in previous post, I haven't played the new 630, so I can't speak to them.    

Fret Wear Note - Along with a more experienced hand, the guy you did the fret work suggested I try GHS Light Mandolin sting sets - A270. What a difference! Not only are they a bit easier on the frets (I was a "dyed in the wool" D'Adderio guy), but the GHS strings sound better and keep that nice sound longer. I haven't had as much as a mark on the frets since I made both changes.