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Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.mandohangout.com/archive/19111
Wildflower - Posted - 01/15/2011: 07:17:19
I have a Kentucky KM505 mandolin which is a good entry level instrument and I have enjoyed playing it. I have noticed, however that the A and especially E strings don't "ring" with their notes when I fret them to play single notes and also when I tremulo the single strings. They sound a bit muted and quieter when compared with notes from the G and D strings and when compared to a friend's higher end instrument. Is this something that can be adjusted? Or is it indicate a need to upgrade? I brought it new last year from an online site that sets up their instruments before shipping. I changed the strings when I got it t ultra light grade for easier playing (for me as a newbie).
ccravens - Posted - 01/15/2011: 07:52:31
I think it's time to upgrade, if you can.
No need spending too much money on fixing up a starter instrument, especially if you think that you'll be upgrading eventually.
mandolinman31639 - Posted - 01/15/2011: 08:00:28
Try some med/light strings that 505 should sound pretty good thebridge and nut on it were set for thicker strings than your using and the ultra lights are going in to deep and killing the sound. I useDAddario J74 Mandolin Phosphor Bronze 11-40 Medium
strings at $5.00 a set much cheaper than a new mandolin.
Gerry Cassidy - Posted - 01/15/2011: 08:40:00
You shouldn't have to buy a new mandolin.
When you changed your strings you went to a lighter string. The lighter string is thinner than the string gauge your mandolin was originally set up to use. Your bridge saddle, and/or nut may need some adjusting, as well as the action height of the string.
Try either going back to the original string gauge, or if you really like the lighter string take your mando to your local shop and have it set up for the lighter gauge string. NOTE: Make sure to find someone who really knows how to work on mandolins.
It's kind of a pain, but much cheaper than buying a new mandolin.
Wildflower - Posted - 01/15/2011: 09:47:24
Thanks. I will try the higher gauge first. I have been playing enough that I think that my fingers have toughened up and gotten strong enough to graduate from the ultra lite strings.
mark - Posted - 01/15/2011: 11:22:14
Heavier strings, perhaps the action on the treble side could be raised.
First, change to heavier strings and see what that does.
If possible, have someone else play the instrument and you listen to see if it's an issue for the player or for the audience.
If that doesn't do it - I'd bet raising the bridge's action on the treble side just a hair would improve things at least a little. If you're uncertain about adjusting the action, I'd seek professional help at least the first time.
If there is someone who is good at working on mandolin around, use them.
Not the guitar guy, he's pretty useless for mandolins. [no offense]
A repair person's time might be expensive, but mandolins with their short scale have very tight tolerances and a slight increase on the treble side of the bridge could do a lot. Perhaps as well the nut has an issue, the bridge could be fit better - there's a lot of little things that have a small possibility of being an issue. Most likely not, but if it's never seen a tech [depending on where you got it/etc] I would do that first.
I've had 30 minutes of billed time increase playability dramatically. Also broke less strings as they smoothed the rough nut slots - my lower end mandolin improved a lot.
At very least, you can have them give you the basics on adjusting the bridge height [and while we're adjusting the bridge, have them give you a quick intro on how to fix minor intonation issues that will develop over time with a floating bridge].
If you don't know what you're doing there - I would be sure someone who knows mandolins is doing it. I screwed up my starter mandolin such that I needed someone to fix my `tweaking'. A good mando repair person set me straight with the basics [and more importantly, what not to do].
And they taught me that my time and money are best spent if I have a pro adjust the nut, slots in the bridge, or anything beyond minor bridge adjustments. But those are crucial over the years to keep the mandolin playing well and perfectly intonated - and are something you can learn to do safely and well.
-- I wouldn't spend an arm on a leg, wouldn't replace stuff - just a little adjustment and check over. If it still doesn't satisfy - you can sell it and upgrade. I'd go cheap, as you like your mandolin except for this.
Just my opinion ... take it or leave it. My wife consistently reminds me how incorrect I am, hopefully you'll find otherwise ![]()
Edited by - mark on 01/15/2011 11:49:26
Gerry Cassidy - Posted - 01/15/2011: 12:00:19
quote:
Originally posted by Wildflower
Thanks. I will try the higher gauge first. I have been playing enough that I think that my fingers have toughened up and gotten strong enough to graduate from the ultra lite strings.
TSSN - Posted - 01/25/2011: 05:33:27
quote:
Originally posted by mark
A repair person's time might be expensive, but mandolins with their short scale have very tight tolerances and a slight increase on the treble side of the bridge could do a lot. Perhaps as well the nut has an issue, the bridge could be fit better - there's a lot of little things that have a small possibility of being an issue. Most likely not, but if it's never seen a tech [depending on where you got it/etc] I would do that first.
mandovoodoo - Posted - 01/25/2011: 05:54:02
Things that would possibly help:
1. Strings - certainly the ultralights will be driving the thing less effectively.
2. Setup - bridge fit can change as an instrument settles in. Tight nut slots, too low an action, too wide contact areas on the bridge. All play into the sustain and tone a little bit. The instrument is sapping energy from the treble strings, sounds like.
3. Better bridge - makes a surprising difference. I use Cumberland Acoustics bridges. Best if they're contoured to have a uniform tap along the end sections of base and saddle.
4. Cleaning up the vibration of the body to avoid sapping energy and creating noise. This makes a substantial difference, but is a pretty subtle thing to take on and requires special tools. See the violin work by Deena Spears and William Fry. I've extended this type of thing into mandolins. Doesn't seem difficult, but is a bit tedious.
Certainly the strings and bridge will bring quick results.
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